What Are Peptides and What Do They Do for Your Skin?

Peptides are short chains of amino acids, the building blocks of proteins. In skincare products, peptides have many possible benefits, such as helping combat fine lines and wrinkles, protecting against ultraviolet (UV) damage, treating acne, and healing wounds.

Peptides help increase collagen production and elasticity. Collagen is a protein that helps build skin, bones, and cartilage. Collagen peptides are amino acids that form collagen.

Understanding how peptides affect your skin can help you make educated choices about your skincare products.

Peptides may have several benefits in skincare products. “Many peptides are small enough to penetrate the skin,” Blair Murphy-Rose, MD, a board-certified dermatologist at Schweiger Dermatology Group, told Health. Peptides have a more profound impact than skincare formulas that use large molecules that only sit on the skin’s surface.

Still, more research is needed to fully understand their possible benefits.

Reduces Fine Lines and Wrinkles

As people age, collagen and elastin fibers decline, weakening the skin. The skin becomes less firm, leading to fine lines and wrinkles. Peptides help smooth the skin by increasing collagen production and improving elasticity. 

“In skincare, peptides are best known for stimulating skin repair and inhibiting the signs of aging,”  Geeta Yadav, MD, a dermatologist and founder of Facet Dermatology, told Health.

In a 2020 study, researchers examined the effects of peptides on premature aging. The researchers asked 22 people aged 40 and older to use peptides on their faces and necks for two weeks. The results showed that peptides helped reduce the appearance of aging skin.

Dr. Murphy-Rose added that some peptides even have a mild Botox-like effect that relaxes muscles and treats fine lines.

Might Protect Against UV Damage

Your skin is a barrier that protects you from the sun’s UV rays, microorganisms, and pollution. Some evidence suggests that peptides help support the skin barrier, protecting your skin from UV damage. UV exposure also causes fine lines and wrinkles.

Skincare products with peptides might treat premature aging caused by UV damage. However, more research is needed to fully understand the role of peptides in sun protection.

May Treat Acne

Some peptides have antimicrobial properties, meaning they can kill bacteria. Some evidence suggests that antimicrobial peptides help with chronic skin conditions, including acne.

When bacteria clog skin pores, your immune system responds, sometimes forming pimples on your skin. Antimicrobial peptides might prevent bacteria from clogging the pores.

Peptides may also have anti-inflammatory effects that could help calm skin and even skin tone.

Helps Heal Wounds

Collagen is a key protein in wound healing. Since peptides boost collagen production, some products with peptides may help heal minor injuries. 

Since some peptides have antimicrobial properties, peptides may repair the skin while preventing infections. People with trouble healing wounds, like some with diabetes, may benefit from using skincare products with peptides.

Many anti-aging skincare formulas include peptides. For the most part, peptides mix well with active ingredients, Gloria Lu and Victoria Fu, skincare chemists and co-founders of Chemist Confessions, Inc., told Health.

You may see anti-aging skincare products with vitamin C and hyaluronic acid. Vitamin C can help slow the aging process, prevent sun damage, and reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. Vitamin C is an antioxidant that helps fight pollution that comes into contact with your skin.

You can usually use peptides with vitamin C, but it’s always good to talk to a dermatologist about mixing ingredients.

Hyaluronic acid hydrates the outer layer of the skin. It usually pairs well with peptides to improve skin texture and reduce fine lines and wrinkles.

Dr. Murphy-Rose noted that you should opt for products that have long-lasting contact with the skin, like serums and moisturizers. Those products give the peptides enough time to work.